Samsung Clp 315 Reset Firmware

Posted in - 19 July 2010 - 126 comments Samsung’s CLP-315 (and CLP-310) are the smallest and cheapest laser color printers around. They just suffer one problem: Samsung protected it against generic toners and its expensive original consumables totally counter-balance the hardware low price.

As each page is counted in both toner and printer, refills are also not possible. Printing 1000 white pages will require a new toner: unacceptable and definitively not a ‘green’ product (see ). Modifying your printer will allow you to extend your consumables life, or, if you want to risk your health and printer hardware, refill them. Current chip market Many chips can be found, with or without refill kits, on ebay.

Prices range from $20 to 49$. Seems Samsung changed the gameplay by updating and reinforcing the mainboards, as some chips states working only on units prior to July 2009. Some claim disabling the CLP-315W wifi. By looking at installation pictures, seems that they all target the same IC, using 3 to 7 wires. 5 wires chip from Turkey Some 5 wire chip from china. Note that an IC is removed. Another version with 7 wires from china.

Samsung CLP-315 Color Laser Printer series. ‘Manufacturer’s warranty’ refers to the warranty included with the product upon first purchase. ‘Extended warranty’ refers to any extra warranty coverage or product protection plan, purchased for an additional cost, that extends or supplements the manufacturer’s warranty. – How simple it is to install fix firmware reset sent by us – Working cartridge without chip (covered with tape or taken out) – Counters reset to 100% after each stop/ start the printer. After reset is necessary only refill toner cartridge. Reset procedure will cancel all 4.

And one 3 wires chip. No IC removal.

Lots of different modchips, and lots of behaviours but we can guess from them: • The IC is the key • Removing the IC breaks WiFi • Toners chips contacts needs to be taped or removed. About the protection The CLP-300 (previous model) was using cylindrical toner cartridges including chips.

Replacement chips can be found and some people managed to directly on those. The CLP-310/315 now includes an internal counter to avoid reprogrammed old toners. The printer stores counts in both toner and IC (the target of the modchips). Some google results also states that the first toners have no chip counter (where 4×3 pins contacts from the printer toner door connects to), and those ones can’t be refilled with the 3 wire chips once they are depleted. The printer starts verifying the toners after the first 1000 pages.

If there’s no need of tweaking toners on new printers, can the printer IC be reset? I did not found much resources about this, except one linking to a no longer available russian page. What could be understood (less than a little), is that it seems possible to achieve bocking the counter by just unsoldering one and joining two pins of the IC. The mainboard IC being a flash 24C64WP from ST Microelectronics. The linked pins are WC and Vcc. By looking at, the WP pin appears being a ‘Write Protect’ function for the IC. This now makes sense!

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Pages counter is blocked just by enabling the internal write protection: Driving it high by connecting it to Vcc. Let’s give it a try! The mod This modchipless modification is for new or less than 1000 pages units.

I auctioned a CLP-315 printer for $90. Printing the configuration shown that pages were 2 black and 0 colors pages counted. Don’t complain this broke your printer: you’ll loose your printer warranty and this modification is at your own risk! If you never soldered, if you don’t have the right tools and if you don’t know about static charges: don’t do it. Disassembling procedure can be found for this model: You should end up with an exposed mainboard.

The IC chip being labeled ‘U1′. Remember how you have extracted the right cover from the front door. This is the most difficult step is reassembly! The chip is effectively a 24C64WP, but it is on a different location. The mainboard could be removed, but this is a risky step as many wires are connected to it. The plugs can break easily by pulling them.

If you don’t have the tool to remove them (each plug have a 0.3mm plastic handle on each side), soldering will be uncomfortable, but possible. I personally chosen to rotate the printer and face up mainboard, at the risk of loosing some toner powder. Identify the chip (U1 on mainboard) and unsolder the pin 7 (counted counter clockwise, IC mainboard mark on left). Mine was near CMS C25.

This could be quite difficult, so here’s a tip: Start removing some welding (using pump) and then create a “lasso” with some kynar wire. Pulling the lasso horizontally while heating the pin should raise it a bit. A needle will help once freed from mainboard contacts.