Installing Non Mortise Hinge

To install these hinges make a simple jig to set the location for the hinge and drill the holes. Begin with a piece of wood about 1' square. Find some metal or laminate the same thickness as the hinge leaf, approximately 1' x 2', to act as a spacer. Determine the placement of the hinge on the door.

• Drill • Self-adhesive notepaper (i.e. Post-its) • Package sealing or masking tape • Screws Step-by-step instructions on installing surface-mounted hinges If you like the idea of quick and easy hardware installation, you’ll love using surface-mounted hinges.

There’s no complicated routing and chiseling—just great-looking results in a hurry. Whether repairing an old box or hinging a new one, the steps are the same. Photos by Robert J. Settich This article originally appeared in Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Choosing and Installing Hardware (2003). The finished product Add spacers and mark centerpoint: If you’re uncomfortable visually aligning the hinge, you can position it with a try square. Drill the pilot holes and drive the screws, but keep checking as you work to make certain that the base and lid remain flush.

Repeat the process for the other hinge,and remove the tape and the spacers. The slightgap at the back of the box ensures that the front of the box will close tightly even when the box changes size due to changes in moisture content. Drill the pilot holes Space and attach the hinge leaf: Make sure that the screw is fully seated in the countersink. Hook the plate over the end of the door, and register the barrel of the hinge against the face of the door. Drill pilot holes, and drive the screws into the holes in the hinge leaf that have the countersinks visible. Move the jig to the carcase, and set a spare hinge atop it and with the barrel against the edge of the carcase. The hinge will be backward in this position, so drill pilot holes in the leaf that has its countersunk holes toward the side of the carcase.

A self-centering bit makes this an easy and accurate job. Measure overhang The usual overlay for kitchen cabinet doors is 3⁄8 in. The face frame of this cabinet has rails and stiles that are 2 in. Wide, so rip a plywood strip 1-5⁄8 in. Wide, and place it flush with the bottom rail.

That way, when you rest the doors atop the strip, their lower ends will overhang the opening by 3⁄8 in. I also wanted a 1-5⁄8-in. Reveal along the vertical edge of the door, but I set my adjustable square about 1⁄32 in. Larger than that to compensate for a bit of springback when the laminate shim was removed from the hinge. Drill pilot holes and drive the pan-head screws to secure the hinge leaf to the stile.

It is easy to install this invisible non-mortise barrel hinge used for wood panels 3/4' thick. Just drill the proper size hole and tap the hinge in flush. Secure mounting in the wood door or panel is assured by tightening the tensioning screw to expand the body of the hinge tightly in the hole.

The solid brass hinge has a brass plated steel linkage and a 180º opening. It requires a 14mm mounting hole. Sold individually. Features: • Non-mortise invisible hinge • For panels 3/4' or thicker • 14mm mounting hole • Solid brass • Sold individually. By GregL on Nice hinge for boxes I have been building some wooden boxes lately and have been using these barrell hinges as another method of installing the lids. They work fine so far but they are finnicky to install and require a 14mm bit to drill the mounting hole. I bought a 14mm forstner bit and for some reason it is a different size 14mm than the 14mm plug cutter I have is.

Is not all 14mm supposed to be the same size? Otherwise, I am satisfied with these Soss hinges and will continue to buy more as needed.